Create your own Wildlife Pond


Written by Admin
Saturday, 16 February 2008

“ Providing a safe haven for a wealth of wildlife and offering you a tranquil spot, wildlife ponds are a must- have in your garden”, says Jodie Jones

Few garden features have the power to attract in quite the same way water does. A pond, and the life it contains, has a mesmerizing ability to soothe frayed nerves. It allows the gardener to grow a whole new range of plants and provides an important refuge for native wildlife.

The shaggy, sprawling charm of a traditional wildlife pond is, in itself, popular with many gardeners. But if you have a formal garden or limited space, you might like the idea in theory, but can’t see how it could become reality in your garden. The good news is that what sets a wildlife pond apart from an ornamental pond has little to do with superficial style, and everything to do with functional design.

You must provide your wildlife visitors with easy access into and out of the water, plenty of places to hide, and a conducive environment in which to reproduce. Given these elements, it is perfectly possible for a formal pond to support a range of wildlife. And it’s just as easy to create a naturalistic wildlife pond that won’t look out of place in a formal or contemporary setting. Even a tiny pond- but aim for no less than 1m (3½ ft) square – can make a significant wildlife habitat and bigger is better.

In short, the only reason for not having a wildlife pond in your garden is if you share the space with very young children (or grandchildren). If you are in this category, then clip these pages and save them for a year or two.

Where to put it

Above all, it’s important to avoid dense shade and overhanging trees, especially deciduous ones that will foul the water with their falling leaves. Next, identify a large site, making an allowance for easy access on all sides (for maintenance).

You’ll need a liner...

The most common options are pre-formed ponds or flexible liners. Pre-formed ponds might seem to be the easy answer, but they have their drawbacks – they can be expensive, can’t be modified and it’s quite difficult to dig a hole that precisely matches the contours. Avoid PVC, which tends not to last long, and go for a top – quality butyl liner.

Butyl is tough and slightly stretchy, making it easier to fit into an irregular shape. It’s not completely puncture-proof, but will last well provided you take reasonable care. Measure the maximum length of the pool, then add two times the maximum depth to this figure, plus 20 cm (8in) extra, so that the edges can be buried out of sight. Then measure the maximum width, plus twice the depth, plus 20cm. If in doubt, err on the side of generosity.

Let’s start digging

1. Mark the out line of the pond, then start digging with a very gentle slope before increasing the angle. At a depth of 20 cm (8 in) make a flat shape for plants to rest on, and make part of the pond at least 60 cm (2 ft) deep for hibernating wildlife.

2. Use a long board and a spirit level to check the edges are level in every direction. Next, go over the entire excavation, removing any tree roots or stones that might damage the liner, and cover with an underlay or 2.5 cm (1 in) layer of damp sand.

3. Lay the unfold liner in a central position, then open it out and secure the edges with bricks. Begin to fill the pond – the lining will fill the hole under the weight of the water. Once full, trim away the excess liner, leaving a flap that can be buried.

Hide the edges

Exposed areas of liner are rather unsightly and are vulnerable to damage. Cover them with pebbles, which also doubles up as a rocky beach for wildlife. For a wonderful viewing platform, you could lay a section of decking over it.

If your pond sits next to a lawn, use the grass as an edging. Lift sections of turf and hide the liner edge underneath, laying the turf back on top- it will soon grow happily to the water’s edge. Marginal plants , adjoining bog gardens and overhanging shrubs all further soften the edges and provide a range of wildlife habitats.

Put in the water and wildlife

Despite common belief, you can actually fill a pond with tap water. Yes, it contains huge amounts of minerals that feed algae, but if you leave it for at least 24 hours (or preferably longer – say two to three days) before you introduce any plants, it will be fine to use. Most of the chlorine will have evaporated, and any greening of the water should be only temporary.

If your pond is small, it is possible to top it up with rainwater from a water butt. Don’t bring in wildlife from other ponds – it rarely survives, and you risk introducing disease or invasive weeds. Be patient and the wildlife will come of its own accord.

It is possible to have gently moving water or lights in a wildlife pond, but these will be for your benefit rather than the pondlife. If you are determined to have electrical devices, plan them in from the outset and use a qualified electrician for installation.

Looking after your pond

Wildlife ponds are low maintenance and most problems will sort themselves out in time. Murky green water is a common complaint. It’s generally caused by an excess of nutrients in the water, and will come clear as the nutrients are used up. Don’t refill the pond with tap water, as this only exacerbates the problem. If you’re really bothered by green water, put bales of barley straw into the pond in February or March. The straw decomposes to release natural hydrogen peroxide, which kills off the algae.

Blanket weed and duck weed are two real enemies of wildlife ponds. They spread rapidly to cut out light and kill off other plants. Chemical controls are available for both, but it’s much better if you can control the problem manually. Blanket weed is fairly easy to pull out by hand, while duckweed can be scooped out using a fine- meshed net. Do try to avoid introducing either in the first place. In extreme case you may need to empty and clean out the pond before making a fresh start.

What about fish?

Somewhat paradoxically, fish have no place in a wildlife pond since they feed voraciously on the pond creatures you are trying to attract, such as frogs, newts and dragonflies. The only exceptions are our native sticklebacks and minnows.

Last Updated ( Wednesday, 20 February 2008 )